Kris Van Assche’s shows follow a very specific formula: they start with black; hint at a crisp white shirt; morph into charcoal suits and outerwear; splash out in a check or tartan and end in a subdued colour – sometimes navy, this time tanel (a tawny mix of tan and camel). Held inside Palais de Tokyo, and with The Pixies blaring from the speakers, Kris Van Assche opened in signature form with a series of black on black looks, white shirt collars barely peeking out at the neck.
Last season saw the designer luxe up a plain white tee in pristine shirting, and this time around he took on sweaters, recreating them in enormous drop shoulder varieties from black yarn and wool tweed.
Things took a decidedly more formal turn with the suiting, but it was still a casual take – cargo pockets hung from the jackets, which were buttoned or even zipped up to the collar. Boys with messenger bags slung over their shoulders strode out wearing suit pants tucked into sturdy boots.
The effect was reminiscent of Jedis, or, oddly enough, skinny mid-90s rappers who always bought from the XXXL section. A strange mix, perhaps, but both groups had the right idea – in freezing temperatures like we’re facing right now, a giant cloak or oversized sweater would go down an absolute treat.