Photos: Sonny Vandevelde
Z Zegna is a constant highlight of the Milan menswear week and today’s outing proved particularly significant – as Alessandro Sartori’s final collection at the brand, all eyes were on the departing Italian to see which way he’d play it. Held in the outdoor courtyard of the Zegna headquarters, a white marquee had been constructed – filled with crisp air and clean light – the perfect backdrop to what was easily the best collection of the week.
Volume, colour and proportion were at play: exaggerated, flowing trench coats with trim trousers; body hugging, ultra-cropped jackets with billowing pants, perfectly cut belted blazers, slouchy jersey DBs; Grecian sky blue, white, dijonnaise yellow, bark brown. This was a collection for the record books – one last blast before the final whistle is blown.
Through casual, business, travelling salesman and evening, Sartori proved his prowess with cut, cloth, colour and cohesion, painting with clothing, if such a thing is possible. When it was all said and done, the applause lasted long after he’d departed the catwalk, and no doubt will continue after he departs the brand. He’ll be sorely missed.