If you’re going to keep things tightly buttoned up top, you’ve gotta give a guy room to breathe down below, right? That’s right, according to Messrs Silver and Cox, who showed a collection of restrictive suit jackets with billowing six-pleat pants at Duckie Brown this afternoon. Huge through the thigh and tapering down to break on boots, the trousers recalled those once worn by zoot-suiters, but the jackets were as skinny as Slimane-era Dior Homme. Paired with loose, untucked tee shirts, the look was at once restrictive and relaxed.
There was something of the military officer in buttoned-up sand jackets and the way in which pants tucked into boots; and a private running drills in matching sweatshirts and pants. After all, who better understands the fine line walked between downtime and vigilance than a man in the army? As for the floral section at the finale, one can only imagine that even the most loyal soldier has gotta go AWOL every once in a while.