Since trailing Tom Bull around Fashion Week for T Magazine, the man has become my go-to guy for any scenario that requires a model. So when Barkers couriered me over a 25 kilogram box of clothes to shoot a blazer story for 1972, I requested his services once again. How To Wear… is my new regular feature for 1972, and I’ll be shooting, styling and writing it all right here on location in New York City. To set the scene, we kicked things off on my favourite New York block, Bond Street.
First up, the tweed blazer:
It’s often been said that tweed elevates the perceived intelligence levels of its wearer, due in no small part to its popularity among the professorial set. But tweed has its place outside rich, mahogany libraries that reek of sophistication and leather-bound books. For the warmer months, dress it down with a button-down shirt and cuffed denim or khaki pants. Then, as the leaves begin to fall, try it over top an oxford shirt, chunky knit sweater and your jeans, or a pair of well-cut grey flannel pants. The beauty of this cloth is that it’s perennial – wear it all year round, as hard as you like. As the hunting-garb of choice for the Brits, there’s a good chance it’ll last longer than you do.
If you’re a regular reader of men’s style magazines or blogs you’ll know this already, but if not, take it from us – every guy should own a casual cotton blazer. It’s the ideal summer jacket. Cut in navy blue, it’ll go with everything you throw it up against: Jeans? Check. Khaki pants? Check. Cotton walk shorts? Check. Canvas sneakers? Check. Black wingtips? Check. White tee shirts? Check. Oxford button downs? Check, check, check. This version comes with a slim silhouette and a modern, cropped body. Note the sleeve length and the snugly-fitting shoulder. It’s exactly how a sportcoat should fit. And, for the record, when you’re dealing with a two button blazer, the rule is as follows: top button always, bottom button never.
There’s something extremely raffish about a one-button blazer. A favourite of British men about town and rockstars alike, it’s best worn with a devil may care attitude and a tie. As the most formal blazer of the bunch, this is a jacket you can dress up for dinner at a fine-dining restaurant, or if you just want to be the sharpest looking guy at the pub. For ultimate results, we’d suggest you pair it with a crisply cut white shirt, black tie and dark dress pants, as we have here. But like its slightly less formal blue counterpart, this guy will go with everything from a white v-neck tee, jeans and black oxfords; to an oxford shirt, navy chinos and suede wingtips.
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