#2249 What’s A Good Pair Of Raw Selvedge Jeans?

Hooman Majd’s blue jeans. Photo: The House of Majd

Noisy-aye asks: Hello Isaac, what would you recommend to a dude who wants to buy his first pair of raw selvedge denim? I am a relatively thick-set individual (wide-shoulders) and fluctuate between size 34/36 depending if I’m #cuttingforrnv. At the moment I’m leaning towards APC New Standards, but might go for Petit Standards (I haven’t tried either yet so not sure what they fit like). I’m in Auckland so it’d be preferable if you recommend something I can try in a store nearby.

Hey man, it all depends on the look you’re wanting to achieve. New Standards are straight leg jeans so they’re not going to be all that fitted, and Petit Standards are significantly trimmed down in the leg so they’ll fit more like a slim. I own a pair of Petit Standards and they’re a great fit, beautiful denim etc, my only complaint is that I’d prefer if they were a bit more tapered at the ankle. If you’re thicker through the thigh but you’d like a slimmer look, buy the New Standards and get them tapered from the knee down. Fabric stocks APC, tell Leon, Marty and Kirk I said hi. They’ll know what it means. One last thing, I read on Hooman Majd’s blog that he doesn’t follow the ‘wear your raw denim for six months before washing to achieve the perfect patina’ theory and after seeing the colour of his regularly washed Levi’s 501s I’ve gotta say I’m most definitely with him. Check them out, above.

My stonewash APC Petit New Standards. Photo: Katherine Lowe

Kirk asks: Just want to say I appreciate your posts, thoughts, and style in general. I literally laughed aloud at your “nearly 6-feet tall” comments the other day. I too am afflicted with being just a hair under 6-feet. Forgive me for hitting you with a “where’d-ya-get-those?” considering how one should be able to find (nearly) anything on the web, but could you point me in the right direction for that light wash APC denim featured in your “#2245 Four outfits I’ll be wearing this Spring” post? I did not see any on the APC site nor on a number of the other e-retailers. Perhaps they aren’t made any longer, or maybe I am just looking in all the wrong places. If that wash is your own work from original raw New Standards, then count me as impressed.

Thanks for your kind words! I wish I could say my stonewash APCs were all my own doing, but they’re not, I bought them that way. They’re awesome jeans but when I got them in September last year they were the last pair at the SoHo store here in New York. There’s a similar colour in store right now but they have light blue stitching instead of the classic orange stitching that my ones have (which is not as aesthetically pleasing IMO). Have you tried Mr Porter? If you can’t get my ones they have a great pair of faded (but not stonewashed) Petit New Standards – they’re that real American denim blue colour and I think they’ll be my next purchase.

Girls in denim overalls from Katherine is Awesome.

Anon asks: Hi Isaac, I think you’re inspiring and kind the way you’ve risen up the fashion ladder (all due to hard work I know) but its nice that you attempt to answer your follows questions and help them. Q. What do you think will be the stand out summer fashion theme for girls in the northern hemisphere 2013?

Hey there! If I was you I’d be stockpiling jeans in the colours mentioned above (stay away from intentional whiskering), your boyfriend’s old tee shirts with the sleeves rolled up, men’s leather shoes, Nikes, cutely printed capri pants, denim overalls and cotton bomber jackets.

Enamel mugs from Labour and Wait.

Anon asks: Hi Isaac I’m going to London soon do you have any favourite shops/things to do there?

Yo! Dover Street Market is one of the greatest stores on planet earth, go there to shop then eat lunch at Rose Bakery on the top floor – the bread alone is worth the visit. Hardy Amies on Savile Row for men’s tailoring, Labour and Wait for homewares and Uniqlo because they still stock the Made in Japan selvedge denim range. Oh, and make sure you see a show at the West End. I’d definitely recommend Les Miserables, Jersey Boys, Mamma Mia or The Phantom of the Opera.

Central Park, as seen from high above 5th Avenue.

Anon asks: Hello! This Thursday I’m going to NYC for the first time ever!!! and I wonder if you have any extraordinarily awesome tips for what me and my mother should do? Is there something we shouldn’t waste our time on? (Your blog is so so good.)

What up! You’re going to have the time of your life! Here’s my complete list of what I think everyone should do when they come to NYC. Have fun!

I know he’s not wearing them with shorts, but still fresh y’know? Photo: Tommy Ton for GQ

Anon asks: Men’s shoes to wear with shorts. What to do? The eternal dilemma. Something casual, not too #menswear or cla$$y. Low-top Cons? Help me Isaac. Plz.

I’m not a big fan of low top Chuck Taylors, but Jack Purcels or Nikes are always a good option, as are off-white Vans Authentics with the blue trim. Wear them with no socks and you’ll make up for the stench by lording harder than anybody else on the pavement.

All blue everything. Photo: Tommy Ton for GQ

Dalmore62 asks: Your opinions on this year’s summer must-haves? It’s getting sunny again so I feel like I need to start revamping the old summer wardrobe!

For the boys: American blue denim, white tee shirts, pale blue oxford short sleeve shirts, seersucker suits, linen, khaki-cotton-everything, vibrant colours worn one or two at a time, clumpy leather shoes worn without socks, decades-old printed tee shirts, bomber jackets, head-to-toe blue, high top Chuck Taylors, Nike Vandals, throwback basketball jerseys, the colour orange, grey suits worn with white oxford button downs and black knit ties, cuffed, creased and cropped chinos and anything army green.


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