Hello friends! It’s been a while since I noticed a specific trend emerge from a menswear season that felt fresh — and powerful — enough to really change what guys are wearing, but this season I saw three; all of which are surprisingly easy to recreate with what you most likely already have going on in your wardrobe. Hooray! Like I said yesterday, the Dior Homme show was my favourite of the season, and it featured all three of the trends, so let’s break it down with these backstage shots by my mate Sonny Vandevelde.
Trend 1: Mixing formal and casual.
Fashion loves a good juxtaposition (high and low, vintage and designer, girls in boys’ clothes), and this one is no exception. Hirofumi Kurino from United Arrows called it “Tailoring meets sports,” and Tiziana Cardini from La Rinascente called it, “Formalwear reloaded.” Simply put, you mix and match suiting elements with streetwear, activewear, sneakers, or denim. I still don’t think I can get behind the designer sweatpants movement, but I loved how Kris Van Assche paired his pinstriped suits with denim jeans, utility vests, and duffel coats; and with olive green army parkas and bombers.
Trend 2: Giant coats.
Overcoats are going to be bigger than ever before. (Perfect for New York and its sub-zero temperatures. Minus 12 today. Ridiculous!) The key to doing this one well is making sure the coat is oversized for you specifically, and not just giant in general. So if it has a big drop shoulder, then it still has to finish at the correct length in the sleeve; it can’t have huge shoulder pads; and you still want your pants to be trim and tailored to keep things looking clean.
Trend 3: Suit pants with everything.
Most of us are used to breaking up our suits, but only when it comes to pairing our jackets with something different on the bottom. This one requires you to do it in reverse. Keep your bottom half very sharp — slim, tapered, cropped suit pants with a cuff, great socks, beautiful shoes — and go nuts up top. I loved Kris Van Assche’s slim sweaters paired with suit pants, but it’d look just as good with a chunky sweater and giant overcoat, or a plain white tee shirt in the summertime. Easy!
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