Clockwise from left: Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten. If Milan is the capital of menswear, Paris is the home of men’s fashion. So it would figure that after a remarkably progressive show from Raf Simons one night, we’d wake up the next morning and head to an equally forward-thinking designer’s presentation. Hello, Rick Owens. (By the way, he was in the audience at Raf’s show.) Like usual, the Rick show was held at Bercy, an enormous grass-covered concert/sports center opened in the early ’80s, and, like usual, we walked into near pitch blackness, with a dull spotlight sweepingClick to Continue!
Rick Owens backstage at his Spring 2009 menswear show. Photo: Steve Wood A few weeks ago, my good friend (and expat Kiwi) Nabil Azadi conducted a lengthy and insightful interview with Rick Owens for SlamXHype, in which the pair discussed everything from Raf Simons’ money troubles to babies, Gummo to mothers. Just before mentioning that his father, who still calls him Richard, was thoroughly unimpressed with the full-sized wax nude depicting himself urinating in his Paris store, the designer dropped hints that he would soon be introducing his first perfume to the market: “Nabil Azadi: Time for a fragrance.Rick Owens:Click to Continue!
Rick Owens catwalk photos: wwd After the Invercargill-esque summer we were treated to in Milan, it’s nice to have arrived in Paris where the sun is shining, the temperature high and the hospitality a familiar combination of unhelpful and rude. To kick things off, it was a short train ride over to Bercy Stadium where Rick Owens was presenting his spring collection. Outside, ghostly fashionistas withered beneath the UV rays, but inside, darkness prevailed – low lighting, rows of black seats, and a predominance of moody, avant-garde dressers. I was seated with Zambesi Man’s Dayne Johnston and other buyers andClick to Continue!
Hermes – Oh my sweaters. Perfect for those days when you can’t decide between crew or vee.Lanvin – An officer and a gentleman… and their Rambo-obsessed love child. Dunhill – The British might have claimed all our explorers as their own, but they can keep their job as official outfitters. Dior Homme – Boxy suits, voluminous coats and cropped pants – anti-establishment officewear for the disassociated drone. Ann Demeulemeester – If Vampire-chic’s your bag, and you really wanna run with it (just say you were born sometime in the mid 1800s), you may as well do it looking like this…Click to Continue!
The crowd milling outside Rick Owens We humans are creatures of habit and I am no exception. Every morning I wake up, get ready to go, then stop by the local boulangerie (bakery) to buy two pain au chocolat on my way to the first show. The ladies at the boulangerie utterly despise me. I’m public enemy number one. Alas, I am a victim of prejudice and persecution. My only crime – the first day I went, I asked (in French of course) for a bag to carry the three baguettes, four pain au chocolat and six croissants I hadClick to Continue!